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BLU: Majesty Tourbillon MT3 “Essence of the past, vision of the future.”

Posted by Joe Vangieri on 22nd May 2008

Swiss Made. A definition of quality, accuracy and class to the esteemed watch connoisseurs of the world. Etched onto the case back or dial, these words convey an unspoken standard. A standard of superiority, and one of excellence.

Welcome to the universe of BLU. Stationed in Colombier, Switzerland, the watch-making wizard known as Bernhard Lederer defies, yet exceeds, the minimum standards of a Swiss made timepiece. Instead, BLU watches strive to achieve more of an international benchmark.

Enter the blu Majesty Tourbillon MT3. Awarded the Tourism Malaysia Most Revered Watch award in 2007 in Kuala Lumpur, the blu Tourbillon MT3 is the utmost in precision and aesthetic qualities. Given to the most outstanding timepiece in Asia’s largest watch and jewelry fair, the blu Tourbillon MT3 sets itself apart from the competition in terms of design, interpretive approach, innovation and movement complication.

Speaking of the latter, the movement of this masterpiece is one to be admired. Described as a “tourbillon within a tourbillon within a tourbillon”, the highly complicated system possesses three corresponding tourbillons, each of which has their own individual turning speed. But, don’t let the internal complications of the timepiece discourage your love of the mechanics. Reading time on the blu Majesty Tourbillon MT3 requires the same skills as those needed to read time on a traditional timepiece.

Invented in 2006, the orbiting tourbillon movement was created by Lederer in his own workshops at BLU SA, the company he pioneered eight years ago in 2000. Boasting a no-cage construction, the blu Tourbillon MT3 provides an unobstructed view of the watch’s inner workings. An ultra-fine, domed sapphire crystal covers the case’s top, bottom and sides. Slanting down from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock, the case requires the crystal be perfectly shaped as anti-reflective treatment gives the appearance of no crystal at all. Also missing on the novel timepiece is the dial, which served no purpose due to the time-indicating tourbillons.

In the foreground, a half-flying, one-minute tourbillon rotates atop the flying one-hour tourbillon. The half-flying construction of the one-minute tourbillon rotates the case once every minute to indicate the seconds. The escapement within this tourbillon beats at a rate of two hertz, which allows a sensible rotational speed. Extremely rare, the requested precision of two microns proves to be difficult to achieve. However, the blu Tourbillon MT3 stepped up to the challenge.

Resting beneath the half-flying tourbillon is the one-hour tourbillon. Rotating the case once every 60 minutes, this tourbillon boasts a high-polished, domed minute hand, which is part of the wheel’s cock. Just like a conventional timepiece, the minute hand denotes time in the same classical way. At 90 degrees the time is 15-minutes past, 30-minutes past at 180 degrees and 45-minutes past at 270 degrees.

Completing the entire watch mechanism is the large 12-hour tourbillon, which rotates the case once every 12 hours. Nestled beneath the two aforementioned tourbillons, this wheel carries their way through the time. The intricate triple-synced movement requires the power of twin spring barrels, which hide beneath the base plate. Conventional watches use this space for the gear cascades, however the blu Tourbillon MT3 shuns the need for separate gears. The double barrel houses ensure the longer power reserve of 72 hours for the manual-winding timepiece.

Attached to the 12-hour tourbillon, a golden triangle pillar revolves the absentee dial to indicate the hour. The triangle pillar methodically moves its way around the golden bezel, which soars above 12 visible columns and showcases punched holes to signify hour markers. The transparent case bestows upon the wearer the ability to become a part of the movement. The considerably large balance wheel of the timepiece swings slower than most classical watch movements, lending the ultimate scenic pleasure. Viewing the progression from the top, bottom and sides of the case, the three-dimensional composition emanates the paramount precision of this haute horlogerie work of art.

Despite the elaborate processes that dwell within the case, the blu Majesty Tourbillon MT3 does not stop there. Composed of 18K white gold or platinum, the 43mm case is flanked by an antiallergenic, black alligator skin strap. The deployment buckle also brags an 18K white gold or platinum composition, ensuring class from end to end. Regardless of the blu Tourbillon MT3’s couture facade, practicality also plays a role in its design. The 26-jewel timepiece can withstand depths up to three atmospheres, or 30 meters, meaning that occasional splashes or brief immersion in water wouldn’t damage the Majesty.

Continuing the pursuit of excellency, each and every blu Majesty Tourbillon MT3 swanks a custom-made architecture and is limited to 50 individually numbered pieces. Finished by hand, each tourbillon possesses the craftsmanship of Lederer and his team. The watch will be presented at the 2008 BaselWorld show in Switzerland.

In the words of BLU, the Majesty Tourbillon MT3 is, in fact, the essence of their watch making. “Essence of the past, vision of the future.”

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BLU Part Watch Part Modern Art

Posted by Joe Vangieri on 13th May 2008

BLU has been getting my attention on so many levels. These watches make a serious Art statement. They take skeleton to a whole new level. They are Sci-Fi “less is more” minimalist technological amazement.

BLU    Majesty MT3  

Given the highest distinction at the 2007 Kuala Lumpur Watch Award, the Tourbillon BLU MT3 defies every standard of design and technical innovation. Each one of its 3 tourbillons - two flying, one semi-flying - displays one indication of the time, opening up a new era of inspired ways to read the time. Limited series of 50.
Movement Hand-wound, 100% made in Blu’s workshops, 26 jewels, 14,400 vib/h, series-coupled twin barrel, 72-hour power reserve, top-of-the-range finishing
Functions Hours (12-hour tourbillon), minutes (1-hour tourbillon), seconds (1-minute tourbillon)
Case 18K gold or platinum, 43 mm
Numbered
Dial Absence of dial for admiring the perfection and exclusive finishing of the movement
Bracelet/Strap Black, hand-sewn alligator leather

 

BLU    Open Planet  
A subtle blend of art and engineering, the Blu Open Planet is looking towards new horizons. A modern design combined with innovative materials and technical mastery infuses this creation with Bernhard Lederer’s own unique spirit.
Movement Automatic Blu-Orbit, manufactured on an ETA 2892A base
Functions Hours, minutes
Case Stainless steel, 44 mm
Dial Carbon fibre
Bracelet/Strap Black alligator leather 
 

BLU    Majesty Orbiting Tourbillon  
Three tourbillons - Three speeds - Three axes! blu MAJESTY offers a truly original expression of time. The mechanism drives a tourbillon gravitating inside another. Both are spinning on the same axis: the first in a conventional manner, once a minute; while the second Tourbillon performs one complete rotation in one hour and serves as a minute pointer. These two Tourbillons turn around the dial’s rim in 12 hours and indicate the hours. International patent filed. Limited series of 50 pieces.
Movement Hand-wound, entirely crafted in the blu workshops
14,400 vph, series-coupled twin barrel
72-hour power reserve, 35 jewels
High-end finishing
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds
Case 750 (18K) white gold, 44 mm
Numbered
Dial Solid silver, hand-guilloché
Tourbillon surrounded by spectrolite, set with a diamond indicating the time
Bracelet/Strap Hand-sewn alligator leather, folding clasp

 

BLU    Duett 
The essence of Blu’s creative ingenuity is found in this refined, highly original model, where the time is read off center at the heart of a remarkably discreet dial. True to character, the brand focuses on the basics: unpretentious exclusiveness.
Movement Automatic, on ETA 2892 base, Blu-Orbit calibre designed and manufactured by Blu
Functions Hours, minutes, large date
Case Steel, 44 mm
Dial Brushed silver
Eccentric time display
Centre piece decorated with Blu logo, galvanised anthracite or carbon fibre
Vertical large date window
Bracelet/Strap Alligator, steel folding clasp
 

 

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