by Eric Engh, CEO OF Oldwatch.com

A cardstock invite to an “A-list” function in New York? Okay. Held at the new Morgan Library & Museum? Even better. What’s the occasion? A gala affair to celebrate the 75th anniversary of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Now, that’s something I can warm up to regardless of the weather.

On the evening of November 6, 2006, Jaeger-LeCoultre threw a party at the Morgan Library & Museum to celebrate the 75th anniversary of the legendary Reverso. It was a beautiful, well-attended event with about 400 guests including actors Matt Dillon and Joe Pantoliano.

Although there was no short supply of celebrities, the real superstars were the displays of Reverso watches from vintage to new including the new Squadra Reverso, and the $375,000 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Triptyque.The first timepiece with three faces and 18 complications demonstrates Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ability to continue innovating.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is an exceptional watch company with a proud 173-year reign; moreover, their flagship Reverso is a extraordinary watch with an intriguing history.

While on a trip to India in 1930, Cesar de Trey, a friend of Jacques David LeCoultre, accepted the challenge of a polo match with some friends. After the match, a British polo player showed De Trey his watch with a broken glass. For some odd reason, British officers liked wearing their watches while they

played. The watches of the era didn’t fare very well under extreme conditions with their crystal exposed. If the crystal broke, then the dial and the hands would soon receive a similar fate.

Many of the watches designed during the World War I used metal mesh-guards over the face of the watch to protect the glass. Even though it protected the dial and hands it made the timepiece difficult to read. Summarily, it was a poor solution to the vexing problem of how to protect the glass and
face of the watch.

This article was published originally in issue 10.1 of hr: Watches & Luxury Lifestyle Magazine. Subscribe to hr: magazine and enjoy similar articles www.hrluxury.com.

Eberhard & Co. enriches the “Chronographe 120ème Anniversaire” collection with an elegant red gold version fitted with an automatic cam movement.

This model,keeps all the features that mark the collection: the transparent caseback enables to admire the refined movement and the particular skeleton rotor with the gilt Silhouette “120″, whose base features the engraving “120ème Anniversaire 1887-2007”. The dial reminds the special anniversary by showing the name “120ème Anniversaire” and is available either in tobacco color with white counters or in white color embellished by a circular golden area, which on one hand makes the tachometer scale stand out, and on the other hand it gives a touch of light to the whole dial.

The special counter at 6 o’ clock has a double function, being the hours- counter of the chronograph and the indicator of the days simultaneously represented on it. The skeleton hands guarantee the readability of the counters and the oblique date indicator at 8 o’ clock. The specially worked sapphire glass, convex, exalts the light reflexes, while the case features a geometric design laterally giving refinement to the profile.
The chronograph’s push buttons are finely worked and the crown has an original “quadrillé” decoration.
Technique, elegance and attention to every detail make this new version a piece of history telling more than 120 years.

Chronographe Chronographe 120ème Anniversaire
Technical features
Reference: 30121 (Cam)  Movement: mechanical Chronograph with automatic winding. Calibre 13 1/4 “, base Valjoux ETA 7750, modulus EB 400. 28′800 vph, 27 rubies, chronograph-functions with cam
device. Counters at 3 – 6 – 9, counter at 6 with double function (hours-counter of the chronograph and day), date at 8. Rotor: skeleton, with Silhouette “120″, 5N gilt finish with Vagues Circulaires motif – gilt engraving “120ème Anniversaire 1887-2007″. Finish of the movement: finely worked – rubies’ contour with 2N gilt circular engraving.  Case: 18 ct. red gold, polished.  Diameter of the case: 42,50 mm Thickness of the case: 14,30 mm  Crown: 18 ct. red gold, screw-in, Quadrillée motif with anti-slip function, personalized with the letter “E” in relief. Diameter of the crown: 7, 50 mm Strap-attachment: 21,00 mm Push buttons: 18 ct. red gold, with a lozenge finish on the upper part. The push button is protected by a gold small ring. Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective Water-resistance: 3 atm Dials: tobacco color with white counters; white with white counters and circular golden area. Applied numerals and indices, gilt 5N. (Registered Design)  Hands: hours and minutes: cone-shaped, skeleton. Small seconds and counters: thread-shaped, with a small  ring as counterbalance. Day-hand: skeleton Caseback: 18 ct. red gold, polished, with a curved profile, secured by 6 screws, with engravings, central part in flat sapphire glass. Leather strap: Alligator, 18 ct. red gold buckle personalized “E&C”.

CENTURY is rounding out its Prime Time Egos GMT Chronograph line with a new model in 18 ct. red gold, featuring a white dial and strap. This summer season design is sure to please men and women alike.

The CENTURY design team is revisiting one of their signature models in salute to balmy weather, the heady days and magic nights of summer.

The twelve-sided 42mm CENTURY sapphire case is fitted on a see-through back framed in 18 ct. red gold through which the watch movement may be observed. Providing both (COSC certified) chronograph and GMT functions, this design features a date aperture at 3 o’clock along with three sub-dials, the largest showing the seconds, the smaller two respectively the hour and the minutes. Connected to the case by 18 ct. red gold lugs, the white alligator strap with 18 ct. red gold deployment clasp provides a perfect aesthetic counterpoint to the dial.

Thanks to its sapphire body, the hardest substance after diamond, a CENTURY timepiece easily stands the test of time and retains its distinctive beauty day after day, year after year.

Prime Time Egos Chronograph GMT
Ref : 606.1.D.55i.72.40D.CZM
Model in 18 ct. red gold - dodecagonal sapphire case, 42 mm - chronograph and GMT functions - white dial - white alligator strap with a folding clasp in 18 ct. red gold - certified C.O.S.C.

Century Time Gems Ltd.
CENTURY was founded in 1966 in Bienne by Hans Ulrich Klingenberg. His vision of an exceptional kind of fabrication and of a timeless elegance gave birth to the world’s first production of sapphire watches. Nowadays established in Nidau, the independent family firm is headed by Philip W.A. Klingenberg, the founder’s son. He actively promotes the development of hand manufactured sapphire watches and jewellery collections for exclusive customers. He has progressively established the brand CENTURY in the world of luxury and glamour.

CENTURY watch cases are entirely composed of indestructible CENTURY sapphire. An exclusive process permanently bonds the sapphire case middle to the sapphire crystal to form a single unit called a monolith. The monolith is then painstakingly cut and polished by hand. From this unique process come original and elegant shapes featuring countless facets.

Harry Winston introduces the : Avenue Squared timepiece, a statement of sophistication and style. Amplified and elegant, this modern interpretation takes the brand’s iconic Avenue timepiece to the power of two by exploring dualities in form and function. The Harry Winston The Avenue Collection’s signature, elongated shape is redefined with a re-proportioned, oversized squared case. Length and width are near similar in size, set in diamonds for a graphic, yet feminine feel. This sleek, clean look ensures a full-panoramic view of the dual-time zone dial with two separate quartz movements. The two time spaces are joined within two diamond circles, forming an infinity symbol for added visual harmony. Dual colors of the dial, for day and night, further enhance the balance and duality in design.

Iconic elegance x Modern design =  Harry Winston
Harry Winston Diamond Corporation is a specialist diamond enterprise with assets in the mining and retail segments of the diamond industry.

The company’s retail division, Harry Winston Inc., is a premier jewelry and timepiece
retailer with salons in key locations including New York, Paris, London, Beijing, Tokyo and Beverly Hills.

In the late 1950s, having established its mastery of the skies, Breitling set off to conquer the maritime depths by launching the Superocean, a professional diver’s watch that also gained a following among the first leisure diving enthusiasts. Ever since, successive generations of Superocean models have continued to excel on a technical level, boasting water resistance to depths of 500, 1500 and even 2000 meters.  A glowing tribute to the original model, the Superocean “Héritage” line reflects both its spirit and itsaesthetics, as in the new Chronographe version.

As was the case 50 years ago, its dial carries the Breitling signature topped by the stylized letter B in 18-carat gold. The model also features another distinctive detail: the hour is displayed by the same luminescent triangular tipped hand that already enabled unequivocal read-off even in the darkness at great depths. The choice of wrist bands is equally exclusive – starting with the Ocean Classic woven steel bracelet, which mirrors the initial version that gave the watch its unusual visual appeal. The even more resolutely sporting Ocean Racer rubber strap comes in three colors matching those of the dial and bezel: black, blue and bronze. The original design of the Superocean Héritage Chronographe is matched only by the quality of its performances.

Its imposing steel case, measuring 46 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 200 meters (660 feet/ 20 bars), houses Breitling Caliber 13, a sturdy high-precision movement officially chronometer-certified by the COSC – as indeed are all Breitling movements.

Movement:
Breitling Caliber 13, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding, high frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 25 jewels. 1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Calendar. Case: steel. Water resistant to 200 meters (660 feet/20 bars). Screw-locked crown. Unidirectional ratcheted bezel. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Strap/bracelet: Ocean Racer in rubber/Ocean Classic in woven steel.

Time zones The world is on your wrist thanks to the Trainmaster Five Time Zone! Knowing the time in London, Hong Kong, Tokyo and New York at a mere glance makes travel and business trips so much simpler!

The remarkable precision of this timepiece is reflected in the skilful balance of classic and retro design. The emblematic luminescent hour-markers with their micro gas tubes, a trademark of the Ball brand, provide perfect legibility.
Movement Automatic, Ball calibre
Functions Hours, minutes, direct-drive centre seconds hand, date and four time zones
Case Stainless steel, 43 mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and sapphire back
Screw-down “Cannonball” crown
Shock-resistant to 5000g’s
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial Black with 4 GMT counters
Hour-markers and hands equipped with micro gas tubes for perfect legibility
Date window at 3 o’clock
Bracelet/Strap Genuine crocodile or stainless steel 
Material : Steel
Movement : Automatic
Date

Power reserve The Longines Conquest is the quintessence of sporting elegance, with meticulous attention paid to the aesthetic potentials of the bezel, the cabochon and the bracelet’s links, all three in black ceramic. This exceptional material combines timeless glamour with extraordinary technical characteristics. A subtle fusion of steel and ceramic, of performance and elegance, the Longines Conquest integrates technical features that will meet the expectations of the most demanding sportsmen and women.

Movement Automatic Valjoux 7750, L667 calibre, 13 ¼ lignes, 27 jewels, 28,800 vib/h
46-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Case Stainless steel, 41 mm
Black ceramic bezel and cabochon
Screw-down back and crown, and crown shield
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 300 m
Dial Black lacquered with large “12” and silvered hour-markers
Polished, rhodium-plated hands
Counters: 12-hour and 30-minute at 6 and 12 o’clock respectively and central seconds
Date window at 3 o’clock
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel with black ceramic links, folding triple safety clasp
 

Material : Steel
Movement : Automatic
Water-resistant > 50m
 
 

This is a truly classic watch. Elegant design which you can wear everyday. Especially during the summer months the stailess steel bracelet comes in handy. The watch itself is powered by a Swiss made automatic movement and has a Chronograph function. The white dial with silver numerals is easy to read.

With 42 millimeters diameter the watch has the classic size. It does not look clunky and fits even smaller writs perfectly.

Details:

Size : XL (42 mm)
Case : Stainless Steel, polished
Movement : Swiss Automatic Mechanical Movement
Function/Complication : chronograph
Bracelet : polished/satin-finished steel
Clasp : Push-button triple folding
Dial : white, silvered counters
Numerals/Index : appliqué Roman numerals and indexes
Date : at 3 o’clock
Crystal : scratch-resistant sapphire
Water-resistant : 30 meters (3 ATM, 100 FT)

Retail price: $3,195
If you happen to be in the market for this watch, you can get your hands on it here ($1,883.69).

GrandCliff Countdown: keeping time with the sports world . Pierre Dubois, founder of the watch brand is a former coach, and is moving with the rhythm of his passions. His countdown has been launched! The first whistle of the Euro 2008 football championships have been blown in the Basel stadium and the countdown is on…

Since football and watchmaking are twin passions for Pierre Dubois, it was entirely natural for him to present his GrandCliff Countdown in this same city at BASELWORLD 2008. This model is clearly built for action, and the rotating countdown bezel will probably more often than not be set to 45 minutes over the next few weeks!

As of August 8th, with the start of the 29th Olympic Games, sailing connoisseurs will be able to line up the bezel with number 10 while awaiting the starting gun. Others may prefer the thrills of a three-minute boxing round.

Whatever their favorite sport, lovers of exceptional watches will doubtlessly appreciate this flyback chronograph, and particularly its day/night function that will help them keep track of the six-hour time difference between Beijing and the Vallée de Joux, the home of PIERRE DEROCHE!

At PIERRE DEROCHE, 2008 is set to be a resolutely sporting year of top-flight performances!

www.pierrederoche.com
Pierre Dubois pi.dubois@pierrederoche.com

Tourbillon watch with Silicium Escapement Wheel. Based on its award-winning Heart Beat Manufacture Calibre, Frédérique Constant developed its Tourbillon fully in-house with a number of unique features:• Silicium Escapement Wheel• Smart Weight Balancing• Fast Oscillation at 28’800 BpH• Tourbillon Cage individually numbered

Silicium Escapement Wheel - In 2007, Frédérique Constant introduced a limited edition Heart Beat Manufacture watch with a Silicium Escapement Wheel. We noted the following three main advantages:

1. Age-related thinning and drying of lubrication will no longer occur
2. An escapement wheel without oiling avoids the risk that oil spreads to other parts of the movement.

3.The escapement wheel is accelerated and stopped at each tick and tock of the watch. The lower weight silicium escapement wheel has lower inertia, increasing energy efficiency.

 Good friction properties

 Lower friction reduces loss of energy, hence the energy requirement for the calibre is lower.

 With its three main advantages compared to a regular escapement wheel, a Silicium escapement wheel is particularly useful in a Tourbillon mechanism. In particular, the reduced weight of the Silicium escapement wheel and the better friction properties result in a substantially higher energy efficiency. As a result, the Frédérique Constant Tourbillon with Silicium escapement wheel has an amplitude of over 300 degrees in dial-up and dial-down positions. Even in the crown-down position, the is over 275 degrees, which is
substantially better than the performance of other high-end tourbillons.

Of all the delicate, complex mechanisms invented by watchmakers overthe centuries, the Tourbillon is one of the most complicated. A Tourbillon mechanism is extremely complex to manufacture due to the required
accuracy of all the parts involved. The Tourbillon is also valued for its engineering and design principles. Only very few and only the very best watchmakers have the necessary skills to manufacture a Tourbillon watch successfully.The Tourbillon is one of the most valued and sought-after complications by
collectors and aficionados of premium timepieces alike. The Frédérique Constant Tourbillon design allows the tourbillon mechanism to be seen through a large aperture in the watch dial at six o’clock. In addition to
enhancing the charm of the timepiece, the Tourbillon cage with itsincorporated hand acts as a second indicator as it rotates once per minute.

Technical Information – Frédérique Constant Manufacture Tourbillon

Reference: FC-980MC4H9 – Limited Edition 188 pieces

Movement: Automatic, Calibre FC-980. One minute Tourbillon, balance-cock on dial side. Diameter 30.50mm (30 ¼ ), 28.800 BpH, 32 jewels, Incabloc anti-shock system, Glucydur balance, Nivarox No. 1 balance spring, power reserve 48 hours, bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage, finished anglage and rhodiage. 188 components; each movement individually numbered.

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Day-Night Indicator

Case: 18K Rose Gold, round shape, two-piece case, diameter 42mm,  thickness 11 mm, antireflective convex sapphire crystal, antireflective sapphire crystal case back, case back secured with 8 screws, water-resistant
to 3 atm. Each case individually numbered.

Dial: Silvered, Clou de Paris in dial centre. Fine black Roman numerals, black steel hands, rose gold and blued steel day-night indicator.

Strap: Genuine hand-stitched Alligator leather with water-resistant lining; additional folding buckle included. 

Retail Price: Euro 28’800,-

Please feel free to contact Caroline Delmonte

delmonte@frederique-constant.com

Tel: +41-22-860-0440